Hmmm, Jake, you don't really think I am going to add to that do you?
I love it!!!
JAKE, You been saving that? Terrific!
Mrs M: Love the Frog - I don't test - just cannon ball in the deep end and lower the Y pool a foot. Wish I could go today but the Y is regretably always closed on Sunday.
They really need to get with the times - families need the Y on Sunday as well as a place for kids to go off the street all winter. We bulldozed our Old Y 18 months ago and just reopened the new one. It was ordered closed as was not handicapped accessible. It took five years to raise the money but more than worth it. I go early in the morning & have a private club.
Accomplishment Is 90% Getting Started
Mrs M: Love the Frog - I don't test - just cannon ball in the deep end and lower the Y pool a foot. Wish I could go today but the Y is regretably always closed on Sunday.
They really need to get with the times - families need the Y on Sunday as well as a place for kids to go off the street all winter. We bulldozed our Old Y 18 months ago and just reopened the new one. It was ordered closed as was not handicapped accessible. It took five years to raise the money but more than worth it. I go early in the morning & have a private club.
Accomplishment Is 90% Getting Started
quote:
Spent most of yesterday trying to get decent pictures, and last night getting some auctions ready to go. Items REALLY hard to get a good picture of, but finally got some I'm happy with.
If the objects are small, the main problems are reflections off the object and the lighting creating shadows that obscure parts of it.
I cannot say I have cured all the reflection problems, but many objects are shown better if they are illuminated from underneath. The logical thing to use is a slide sorter, but they tend to be rather expensive. After fiddling with sheets of frosted plastic and lighting underneath I gave up and bought a large secondhand slide sorter on ebay for about £30. It has transformed the look of almost everything I photograph and is well worth the expenditure.
A friend suggested that a good alternative would be those illuminators that Hospitals look at Xrays on, but I have never come across one of those.
The other tip is for for shiny objects. The best advice I can glean here is to build a tent and put the illumination outside. Funnily enough a 1943 Amateur Photographer magazines I bought last week gives instructions for such a tent, starting with "use an old lampshade frame - fix wire coathangers to it so that is high enough off your table top, then drape it all with white muslin" This seems worth a try - it should also be comparatively cheap!
Here is an example.
This one is not going up for auction soon, but once I got everything set up right, thought I should get them all. They don't scan well at all.
This one is not going up for auction soon, but once I got everything set up right, thought I should get them all. They don't scan well at all.
It would be hard to scan them, Puppy, because they are incased! But, beautiful! 
It was like trying to take a close up of a mirror.
Everything was in focus, but shiny things just don't do well in a scanner, they come out black. I wanted the reflection off the coin, but not off the plastic case.
Everything was in focus, but shiny things just don't do well in a scanner, they come out black. I wanted the reflection off the coin, but not off the plastic case.
Reflections, reflections, reflections!
You need a tent - honest!
Secondly what is that gold coloured thing it is resting on? If it is not part of the packaging, then use a white sheet of card to place the coin containers on - at least it gets rid of one of the distractions.
Sometimes these photos just need to be worked on.
I use Paint Shop Pro (about $70) which is excellent for every purpose (and easy to work with) except one. That "gap" can only solved by the aquisition of Photoshop (expensive!) It gives you a command that literally enables you to cut out an object from its background.
Lacking the necessary $400, I decided that better backgrounds were a)quicker in the long run and b)much cheaper! So I went to an art shop and bought myself a Winsor Canvas Board 30" X 20". Its a lot tougher than card or paper, can be cleaned easily, and is big enough (if I angle the camera right) to hide all sorts of wallpaper and furniture if I sneak things onto the dining table whilst my wife is out!
Sudden thought! Is it your flash thats causing the lighting highlights on these coins? In that event, buy yourself a cheap tripod and set the camera to the "no flash option"
If illuminating things with light gives a yellow cast, buy a couple of those blue bulbs they sell in sewing shops.
You need a tent - honest!
Secondly what is that gold coloured thing it is resting on? If it is not part of the packaging, then use a white sheet of card to place the coin containers on - at least it gets rid of one of the distractions.
Sometimes these photos just need to be worked on.
I use Paint Shop Pro (about $70) which is excellent for every purpose (and easy to work with) except one. That "gap" can only solved by the aquisition of Photoshop (expensive!) It gives you a command that literally enables you to cut out an object from its background.
Lacking the necessary $400, I decided that better backgrounds were a)quicker in the long run and b)much cheaper! So I went to an art shop and bought myself a Winsor Canvas Board 30" X 20". Its a lot tougher than card or paper, can be cleaned easily, and is big enough (if I angle the camera right) to hide all sorts of wallpaper and furniture if I sneak things onto the dining table whilst my wife is out!
Sudden thought! Is it your flash thats causing the lighting highlights on these coins? In that event, buy yourself a cheap tripod and set the camera to the "no flash option"
If illuminating things with light gives a yellow cast, buy a couple of those blue bulbs they sell in sewing shops.
quote:
I use Paint Shop Pro (about $70) which is excellent for every purpose (and easy to work with) except one. That "gap" can only solved by the aquisition of Photoshop (expensive!) It gives you a command that literally enables you to cut out an object from its background.
I got full verions of both on demo disks. You can always *find* programs like that for zilch on the net anyways - IF you are that way inclined.
Lexie
Hi camera along with the holographic logo. In fact it took me a while to figure out my problem was NOT using a flash. Without it they look dull and lose a lot of depth.
Pictures were taken outside with a tripod on a very cloudy day. I did use a tent (of sorts) so there is no reflection of the tripod on the plastic holders. Coins were positioned about 10 feet away and parallel to the lens face, and then tilted about 5 degrees toward it. Highlights are from a flash about 4 inches above the camera lens. I got lucky, as that produced the angle needed to see the hologram.
quote:It's a jig made out of fiber board so I could get them in exactly the same position and angle each time. Yea, you're right... should have used a piece of off white or black felt behind them or painted it. To late now, I'm not going through all that again. Took pictures of 45 coins front and back.
Secondly what is that gold coloured thing it is resting on?
quote:I use Micrografx Picture Publisher. Used it to turn the blue down and the contrast up a tad.
I use Paint Shop Pro
quote:Yes, but I want them.
Sudden thought! Is it your flash thats causing the lighting highlights
along with the holographic logo. In fact it took me a while to figure out my problem was NOT using a flash. Without it they look dull and lose a lot of depth.Pictures were taken outside with a tripod on a very cloudy day. I did use a tent (of sorts) so there is no reflection of the tripod on the plastic holders. Coins were positioned about 10 feet away and parallel to the lens face, and then tilted about 5 degrees toward it. Highlights are from a flash about 4 inches above the camera lens. I got lucky, as that produced the angle needed to see the hologram.
Well, Puppy, if I were looking for coins (and beings that I am not a camera expert), I would have thought that it was a very clear picture! I am sure it is because I don't know the difference! 
Beg or borrow a "Ringflash" and see if that is an improvement. They are quite expensive, so I wouldn't buy one without experimenting first.
Still not certain if flash is the right thing. I would have thought you would have got better control on this by using a couple of static lamps (of the anglepoise variety) so that you can get better control. Perhaps try a set of extension tubes if you are using a conventional reflex rather than a fixed lens digital.
I would go for fixed lights, no flash, small aperture and long exposure on a tripod to give you the control and depth of field you require.
Still not certain if flash is the right thing. I would have thought you would have got better control on this by using a couple of static lamps (of the anglepoise variety) so that you can get better control. Perhaps try a set of extension tubes if you are using a conventional reflex rather than a fixed lens digital.
I would go for fixed lights, no flash, small aperture and long exposure on a tripod to give you the control and depth of field you require.
Using a fixed lens digital, but still hanging on to my F3. The depth I spoke of was for the coin, not depth of field. Taken at 10 feet depth of field is not a problem. I've got macro, but getting to close exaggerates the angles I wanted.
Good Morning.
On having a re-think, I have come to two conclusions:
a. You are confusing lighting the object with highlighting it
b. If you are doing this on a regular basis, you really need a jig not just for the object, but for the whole set up. Like a scientific experiment you need replicate the thing time after time!
Dealing with the second point first, I would get a sheet of ply/blockboard and mark/bolt the exact position of your jig upon it. Then get two spotlights of the flexi variety (I managed to buy two extremely cheaply in a colour that nobody else wanted for about $10!) Fit blue bulbs to them if colour cast is a problem. As an aside though my digital has a means of setting "true white" with artificial illumination, I find it a fiddle to do this each time I want to take a photo!
Find a position that illuminates your coins evenly without causing undue reflections. Bolt them to the board. This may involve a tent, or if you don't want to do this, a diffuser of some type in front of the bulbs - leave a gap for ventilation!
Paint the jig background black. That will help get the auto exposure right as these auto only digitals are easily confused by white - as I have found to my cost (I must really buy a digital reflex to get the control I want, but they are still far, far too expensive!)
I agree with you about getting up close - I normally stand back and use a f2 85mm on my FE2 as the ideal combination as I can then control depth of field and confine focus to an exact plane. My digital is a lot less controllable and decides what aperture it needs!
I would then set up one or two "catchlights" to give the desired reflections in the exact places (illuminating the Hologram?) you require. If you are using flash, hand held (I am guessing here) that this is what you are doing, you will never be consistent. I think you can now get some ornamental pencil beam type lights that will do - alternatively, one of those small focussing torches.
I think that's my final say (thank goodness says all the very bored onlookers!) and I hope some of my suggestions might have been a help
On having a re-think, I have come to two conclusions:
a. You are confusing lighting the object with highlighting it
b. If you are doing this on a regular basis, you really need a jig not just for the object, but for the whole set up. Like a scientific experiment you need replicate the thing time after time!
Dealing with the second point first, I would get a sheet of ply/blockboard and mark/bolt the exact position of your jig upon it. Then get two spotlights of the flexi variety (I managed to buy two extremely cheaply in a colour that nobody else wanted for about $10!) Fit blue bulbs to them if colour cast is a problem. As an aside though my digital has a means of setting "true white" with artificial illumination, I find it a fiddle to do this each time I want to take a photo!
Find a position that illuminates your coins evenly without causing undue reflections. Bolt them to the board. This may involve a tent, or if you don't want to do this, a diffuser of some type in front of the bulbs - leave a gap for ventilation!
Paint the jig background black. That will help get the auto exposure right as these auto only digitals are easily confused by white - as I have found to my cost (I must really buy a digital reflex to get the control I want, but they are still far, far too expensive!)
I agree with you about getting up close - I normally stand back and use a f2 85mm on my FE2 as the ideal combination as I can then control depth of field and confine focus to an exact plane. My digital is a lot less controllable and decides what aperture it needs!
I would then set up one or two "catchlights" to give the desired reflections in the exact places (illuminating the Hologram?) you require. If you are using flash, hand held (I am guessing here) that this is what you are doing, you will never be consistent. I think you can now get some ornamental pencil beam type lights that will do - alternatively, one of those small focussing torches.
I think that's my final say (thank goodness says all the very bored onlookers!) and I hope some of my suggestions might have been a help
quote:
I hope some of my suggestions might have been a help
Yes 
No - this onlooker is fascinated!
Can I ask a question about Photoshop then? I don't want to go too far "off topic"!
SS
"Run, Squeaky, Run!"
Can I ask a question about Photoshop then? I don't want to go too far "off topic"!
SS
"Run, Squeaky, Run!"
I did buy my copy of Photoshop on eBay....
SS
"Run, Squeaky, Run!"
SS
"Run, Squeaky, Run!"
Morning... (here anyway)
quote:I don't have Photoshop, but I'm sure someone does... Ask away!
Can I ask a question about Photoshop
I have Paint Shop Pro, Photoshop & Fireworks, all raved about on the web & computer press. Unfortunately every time I think I'll have a go at doing something in Fireworks or Photoshop, I get lost after 5 minutes and think I cant be !@###!**? with this and go back to Paint Shop Pro.
Photoshop has that great cut out tool to get rid of troublesome backgrounds and I can make it work, sort of. However the time it takes me has convinced me to invest £5 in a White board instead (see above) for backgrounds!
I really am a bit of a Luddite!
Anyhow, if any of you want to give me practice in Animation Shop, give me a few words and I'll do instant Banners for you in the four or five standard variants supplied with the software (see the Mory wheel)
Photoshop has that great cut out tool to get rid of troublesome backgrounds and I can make it work, sort of. However the time it takes me has convinced me to invest £5 in a White board instead (see above) for backgrounds!
I really am a bit of a Luddite!
Anyhow, if any of you want to give me practice in Animation Shop, give me a few words and I'll do instant Banners for you in the four or five standard variants supplied with the software (see the Mory wheel)
Camera, I guess photoshop has not changed much! I bought it about 8 years ago for around 6-7 hundred dollars and never could get the hang of it! 
TechTV has a (weekly?) segment on Photoshop. It's either on their 'Call For Help' or 'The ScreenSavers' show. I don't have photoshop (can't justify the $$$), but it looks amazing
Mory - When I vacation in NYC I often stay at the YMCA in Brooklyn. It's less than $40 a nite and not all that difficult to walk a block to the subway to go into town I stay at the Greenpoint YMCA which has an added benefit of being smack dab in the middle of the polish section (I could just stay there and eat and never go into the city)! Now I'm starting to crave white borsch (and it's a bugger to make)
Mother Mary Says, 'HONESTLY! you're just ruint!'
Mory - When I vacation in NYC I often stay at the YMCA in Brooklyn. It's less than $40 a nite and not all that difficult to walk a block to the subway to go into town
I stay at the Greenpoint YMCA which has an added benefit of being smack dab in the middle of the polish section (I could just stay there and eat and never go into the city)! Now I'm starting to crave white borsch (and it's a bugger to make)
Oooooohhhhhhhh....groan.....I just spent a few hours digging and putting in edging, and my
"everything" hurts!! I have some roses on the south side of my house and they were attacking us last summer! I had to get them under control.
I think I'll go snipe some bengay!! oweeeee
OH OH OH I just looked out the window and there's a robin in my yard! FINALLY spring is here "phew"!!
The best things in life are furry....and flowers!
"everything" hurts!! I have some roses on the south side of my house and they were attacking us last summer! I had to get them under control.
I think I'll go snipe some bengay!! oweeeee
OH OH OH I just looked out the window and there's a robin in my yard! FINALLY spring is here "phew"!!
The best things in life are furry....and flowers!
Just slipping in to tell auctionsecrets...
... ONCE IS TO MUCH... GIVE IT A REST !
... ONCE IS TO MUCH... GIVE IT A REST !
Puppy....??
The best things in life are furry....and flowers!
The best things in life are furry....and flowers!
Oh, never mind, I was just venting. I'm over it now... almost...
And I had this all ready for you too, Puppy! 
OK, here goes.
I've got two photos I'm trying to modify. One is just totally overexposed all over, but because it is of a white dog it seems to defy all the automatic tools that Photoshop offers.
The other I took myself and it was only afterwards I realised that a ray of sun had fallen across the bottom half of the subject and so it has two exposures/tones - top half normal and nice, bottom half golden and rather overexposed.
I've read a lot of digital editing magazines and see other people's fantastic results, so I can't believe that PS won't be able to "mend" these pictures, but I just don't know how....
SS
"Run, Squeaky, Run!"
I've got two photos I'm trying to modify. One is just totally overexposed all over, but because it is of a white dog it seems to defy all the automatic tools that Photoshop offers.
The other I took myself and it was only afterwards I realised that a ray of sun had fallen across the bottom half of the subject and so it has two exposures/tones - top half normal and nice, bottom half golden and rather overexposed.
I've read a lot of digital editing magazines and see other people's fantastic results, so I can't believe that PS won't be able to "mend" these pictures, but I just don't know how....
SS
"Run, Squeaky, Run!"